On October 30th Lonely Planet published an article listing the Top 10 Cities to Visit 2012. Naturally, being addicted to travel as I am, I read the article.

I have to admit that I was surprised with a lot of the cities that made the list (Orlando). And equally surprised with those that did not (Paris!?). I do understand that this is LP’s pick for the year of 2012 and perhaps thats where the Travel Guide guru and I disagree.

To each their own.

Reading the article made me think of what my Top 10 Cities list would look like; but we’re not talking 2012 anymore, we’re talking of all time. I dreamed up the list and in reflection I have to admit that it’s pretty cliche but I’m okay with that.

1. London (UK)
Yes, I can admit that I am biased. I love this city because it has everything I could ever want between the rich history, the great theatres, the amazing architecture.. I could go on and on but I think you get the point. I am never bored when I travel to London.

2. Hong Kong (HK)
To be honest I’m not big or hip on Asian destinations at this stage in my life but a dear cousin of mine once lived in HK and listening to her talk of it I am fascinated and eager to travel there some day.

3. Marrakesh (Morocco)
I can’t remember when I first began my fascination with Marrakesh but it’s been hovering at the top of my list of destinations I want to travel to (tomorrow if I could).

4. Vienna (Austria)
Another city that has been hovering at the top of my destinations I want to travel to (tomorrow if I could) list. I’m eager to experience this city and it’s abundant elegance.

5.  Dubai (UAE)
Dubai has always interested me but it wasn’t until a new co-worker spoke to me about it (she had grown up there) that it really sparked my curiosity and interest.

6. Copenhagen (Denmark)
There are a dozen reasons I could think of but above all else it’s wear my beer of choice is brewed; that and it’s a remarkably interesting city on paper.

7. Santiago (Chile)
Many travel experts have touted that Chile, particularly Santiago, is a place that should be visited and given the high praise I’ve seen from multiple sources I’ve discovered that I am intrigued by this South American city.

8. Edinburgh (UK)
I’ve visited Edinburgh a countless number of times but I don’t think I could ever become bored with the city. It has incredibly rich history and a great number of different elements to see and partake in from beautiful architecture to Arthur’s seat, with it’s hiking trail.

9. Venice (Italy)
I believe that Venice is simply one of those cities that you have to experience; it’s the aesthetics and the quaintness of the city that have captured my attention and inspiration. There is also the threat that it could fall into the sea and be lost forever.

10. New Orleans (USA)
I always wished that I had visited New Orleans before Katrina tore it to shreds. The city itself is an experience of the senses and is one that I dare not miss in my lifetime.

What would be your Top 10 Cities to visit? Do you think Lonely Planet got it right for 2012? Or do you think both LP and I are simply daft? Share your comments below!

Test yourself!

I had the pleasure of taking a 9 day trip over to England and Wales. Unlike my usual travel adventures this one was less structure and I did not join a tourgroup. For me this trip was more about seeing friends and revisiting London for a short reunion.

I discovered that I do miss London as much as I expected – perhaps even more – and my old neighborhood is as warm and inviting as I remember. My knowledge of the Tube system was only slightly rusty but I can still maneuver it like a master – and it was a cruel reminder of just how poor subway and train systems really are in the US.

My explorations are less than prolific this time but I loved every minute of this trip. The highlight reel includes:

• Long winding roads are far more enjoyable when in a convertible sports car.
• The stars on a clear night are truly amazing and even more so when there’s a telescope involved.
• Tesco baked goods are as tasty as I remembered.
• Despite living in a city for some time you can learn a lot of new things during a 4 hour walking tour (and you can steal the thunder from the tour guide by doing his job for him).
• Fancy dinners with new friends.
• Shopping.
• Finding my groove while driving on the left side of the road; it may have taken longer than I wished but it was worth it once it happened.
• A Doctor Who themed tour of Cardiff to show me some very familiar places.
• The rugged beauty of Raglan Castle and the sunny afternoon we spent exploring it.
• Meeting some truly amazing people in the middle of no where in Shropshire and loving every minute of it.

And the biggest highlight of all was the friends I imposed upon along the way and the awesome travel partners who kept me on the correct side of the road and sane.

Now onto the good stuff.. stories with pictures!

Day 1 – Aug 28 – London to Chedburgh

Everytime I fly to Europe I take an overnight flight – and this is despite telling myself that next time I will avoid doing that. But each time it comes to planning and booking a flight I can’t help but gravitate back towards the overnight flight. I can’t convince myself that sleep is worth more than a full day in Europe – why would I want to land at night, rush myself to a hotel, and then force myself to sleep? Instead I prefer forcing myself to sleep in an uncomfortable position on a plane, waking up with a crick in my neck, and then stumbling through customs and dragging myself to the end destination – and that’s all before I spend a day touring and exploring my new destination.

Really – when you look at it that way it’s a lose / lose situation. And I never learn my lesson.

So, as per my standard operations, I booked myself an overnight flight, slept uncomfortably on the plane with my neighbor’s elbow firmly planted in my side, woke up with a crick in my neck, stumbled through customs, dragged myself through Heathrow, onto a crammed Tube, held myself upright for an hour until I arrived at King’s Cross station, wobbled my way to the train bound for Cambridge, shuffled to change trains at Cambridge for one bound to Bury St Edmunds and fell into the car of my friend.

Thankfully the night was relaxing and started with an amazing dinner that simply covered the dining room table – and provided us with the perfect excuse to eat outside.

Spending the night with Louise, her boyfriend and his parents reminded me how much I missed the culture and the little nuances that made me love the UK so much. We watched a hint of Top Gear and topped it off with QI – two shows that I don’t get to see back in the US but desperately wished I could! Then the night was topped off with a dip in the hot tub beneath the stars. The telescope came out and we were able to see Jupiter and four of it’s moons.

It was an afternoon of country living at it’s finest!

Day 2 – Bury St. Edmunds to London

I absolutely love exploring small European cities as they always have the most interesting sights. So when offered the opportunity to visit the near by town of Bury St Edmunds I jumped at the chance. It was just a few minutes down the road from my friend’s home and it granted me the opportunity to see some truly interesting sights; things I never could stumble upon in the US.

I dashed off to some of my favorite stores while I left my friend to her own shopping. I paced myself though and walked away with a manageable amount of bags. I loved the shopping center that they had but I may simply be biased since it had all my favorite stores – New Look, Peacocks, River Island.. just to name a few.

What I find mos fascinating, and foreign, about traveling in Europe is the common ancient structures or ruins you can stumble upon while out and about. The Abbey Gardens in Bury St Emunds also were home to the Abbey ruins which I found fascinating. While my initial attention was caught by St Edmundsbury Cathedral I nearly overlooked what was all around me – the remaining ruins of the Bury St Edmunds Abbey. It was simply a massive structure and what remains of it now are the flint stone walls that have withstood the test of time. What amazed me even more than that was how the activity of the garden simply wound it’s way around and through the site. In the US this would have been cordoned off and covered with “do not touch” signs as if that extra precaution would preserve the outdoor structure longer.

Later that afternoon, after thoroughly exploring the Abbey Gardens and ruins, I jumped back on a train to London and was off to start the next leg of my trip.

Day 3 – London

My travel partner, Jess, joined me late on the night of Day 2 after fighting her way from Heathrow to our hotel just outside the British Museum. After a short night of sleep, for the both of us, we made our way over to Piccadilly Circus to join a walking tour that we had found on Living Social. It was a four hour walking tour from Piccadilly down to Parliament with a few surprises and stops along the way.

I learned a bit more about London through the eyes of our tour guide but also managed to give part of the tour myself (I apparently retained a lot of knowledge from my former days in London). It was a fun way to spend the more but it was utterly exhausting for two girls who had barely slept the night before and had a week of activities planned. We got to see the department store (now a Waterstones) where “Are You Being Served?” was set to take place. We toured several shops famous for providing exclusive merchandise to the royal family – complete with the royal seals. We visited Fortnum and Mason, a popular department store, and saw the American Bar (complete with a baseball cap from Holy Cross – a little reminder of home). We saw both Green Park and St. James Park, and stopped for a moment to take in the sights of Trafalgar Square, with a brief visit to the very center of Westminster.

Following the tour we took a visit to Westminster Abbey. Surprisingly I had never seen this beautiful Abbey while I was living in London – it was one of the few sites in London that I had managed to overlook while living there. The Abbey had so much to offer in the way of architecture, history and opulence. I had completely underestimated everything about Westminster Abbey but am so pleased that I got to explore it in full. I think the favorite aspect of Westminster Abbey was the number of familiar names who had been buried there – Chaucer, Dickens, and Austen just to name a few of the long and impressive list.

That night we joined two local friends and made our way to the posh and opulent Criterion Restaurant in Piccadilly Circus. Earlier in the day, during our walking tour, we had been given a brief glimpse of the inside of the restaurant. It was a treat to eat there and soak in the atmosphere best noted for being the meeting place of Sherlock Holmes and Watson.

Day 4 – London

Shopping, shopping, shopping. It was a happy day for me :)

I also attempted to meet friends at the Tower of London but managed to miss them in passing so I also did get to enjoy a round trip tube ride, and an hour of people watching at the Tower. I’ve always been a fan of that part of town with all it’s beautiful sites and architecture – the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, All Hallows-by-the-Tower, and City Hall across the Thames.

Tower Hill also happened to be the place where I got to meet friends for dinner and drinks at a local pub. It was a merry event once we all came together.

Day 5 – London to Cardiff

Being the geeks that we are we could not pass up the opportunity to visit the Doctor Who Experience in Kensington. Along the way we discovered that we’d left quite a bit earlier than we needed to and made a quick detour to Kensington Gardens to see the Palace. There we discovered a wall of memory in dedication to Princess Diana. It was a truly beautiful and moving sight to see how her memory has not faded in the years since her passing.

I’m glad that I went to the Doctor Who Experience but I had to admit it was truly geared towards children and not the adult fans of the series. I enjoyed the costume exhibits but overall it was underwhelming.

We stopped by a Pizza Express (which I had been thoroughly craving for 4 years since I last lived there) for lunch and met a Canadian traveler who chose to ate with us. I always enjoy meeting new people along the way.

Following that we quickly made our way back to the hotel with a short stop over at the British Museum. We viewed the inner courtyard with its beautiful dome and caught a glance of the Rosetta Stone.

Thursday was the day of the mad dash – running from one place to the next and constantly late. After the British Museum we left for Gatwick Airport where we met our Scandanavian friends and travel parters in crime. We rented a car and I had the pleasure of driving. I loved it! That is.. once I adjusted to the spacial differences with driving on the left side of the road and the right side of the car.

The glimpse of got of Cardiff was brief that night but the hotel was splendid and the company even better.

Day 6 – Cardiff to Much Wenlock

Carrying on with the Doctor Who theme of the trip Jess arranged for the four of us to have a private guided Doctor Who tour of Cardiff – which worked out fabulously for me since it also allowed me to see some of the major sites of Cardiff, and the surrounding area, in the process.

We started by walking around Cardiff. Our guide pointed out little areas that had been used in the television show and I was floored by the little nuances that they did on the show to portray Cardiff as London in many scenes.

We traveled to Llandaff to visit the Cathedral and village green – and I appreciated the tour we had of the Cathedral aside from it’s cameo in the show. It was set low in a valley so that the top of the Cathedral could not be seen from the water and identified as a target. I absolutely loved the structure and the little details all along the building.

Then we visited St Fagans – which, from the description in the tour book, I had initially thought would be similar to Old Sturbridge Village here in Massachusetts. It was different and represented so much more than what I’ve seen in the US. The buildings were each unique and represented a different period in Welsh history and I really loved the set up of it all.

After returning to Cardiff and visiting St John the Baptist City Parish Church we stopped for lunch at a Tapas restaurant that is a favorite of Karen Gillan, from the show. And once again we were off.

This time we were driving north towards Much Wenlock with a stop at Raglan Castle along the way. Four years ago I’d visited Chepstow Castle in Wales and while there I had picked up a brochure for a neighboring castle called Raglan Castle. Since then I’ve been waiting and wanting to visit it – this was the perfect time to do so.

I experienced, much to my dismay, my first hedgerow along the way. In retrospect this one was the least terrifying of the hedge rows but since it was my first I was definitely having a minor freak out. Later in the day we’d come across another one just before our destination – and ended up coming face to face with an oversized tractor load that took up the entire road. After driving the car literally into the hedge we were missed by the tractor with barely two inches to spare.

Raglan Castle was rebuilt in the seventeenth century but a castle had stood on that location since the twelfth century. It was truly a magnificent sight and ruin to explore and tour. The view of the country side was impressive, as was the secondary castle within the castle, the live moat, among other interesting quirks.

After we pried ourselves away from Raglan Castle we finished the trip north to Much Wenlock where we met with our friends for the 10th Anniversary party we’d all traveled to the UK to attend.

Day 7 – Anniversary Party

It was awesome – enough said. A weekend in the countryside with a group of friends – complete with lawn games, wood chopping, bon fires and home brew deliciousness.

Day 8 – Much Wenlock to London

After leaving the Anniversary party we trekked back to London to return the car and eventually made our way out to dinner at a local Indian restaurant (across the street from my old flat). I was able to reflect upon a week of travels with the company of three good friends. It was quite the trip!

Dublin

The last remaining day in Ireland was to be spent in Dublin and we had arranged to meet several of the friends we’d made on our trip at the Guinness Storehouse that morning.

Guinness Storehouse

I’ve been to a few breweries in my time but nothing prepared me for what I found at the Guinness Storehouse. I was incredibly impressed by the setup and presentation of the entire museum. The experience took us through the process of how Guinness is created from the selection of hops to the water and finally to the final creation. We had a taste testing of the Guinness and then proceeded through the museum portion before heading to the Gravity Bar; which had the best aerial views of Dublin.

We found our way back towards the center of the city and stopped at Rick’s Burger for lunch. Then we proceeded to enjoy a shopping spree; shopping until my arms hurt evening though my friends helped me carry the bulk of my bags!

Ghost Bus Tour

I’ll be the first to admit that I love cliche tourist traps and I have to tell you that the Ghost Bus Tour of Dublin is exactly that; however there are some truly fun moments of visiting Dublin in the dark that makes it worth every over the top gimmick. There are certain areas of Dublin you’d never be able to see in the dark without the aid of your theatrical tour guide.

Belfast to Dublin

The morning was spent travelling the city of Belfast, particular the areas of unrest and near the peace wall, as a part of a Black Cab tour.

This tour was significantly different from the walking tour from Derry; and the city itself painted a different picture than we had seen in peaceful Derry.

First we visited the Protestant/Loyalist neighborhood where we were shown a series of murals created by the locals. Those murals depicted various aspects of their history and loyalty; going so far back as to show the origination of the Protestant’s claim on Ireland. Then we visited the Catholic/Republican neighborhood and their memorial garden for all their slain brethren.

We stopped to visit the “peace” wall and sign our thoughts. Overall the feeling in Belfast was one of tension and discomfort.

Monasterboice

After leaving Belfast we travelled the road towards Dublin, making a few small pitstops along the way. The most memorable being our stop over at Monasterboice.

We visited an old monestary featuring a set of large Celtic crosses; each depicting a Christian story. This was the Christian’s attempt to use the Celt’s own traditions to depict their stories. I was definitely in awe of the size of this structures and their juxiposition amongst the rest of the Chrisian graveyard.

Dublin

All good journeys must come to an end and we parted ways with our new friends in Dublin to return to our hotel and begin, once again, our own tour of the city. Several of our friends from the trip were also planning to stay in Dublin just a little longer and we made plans to visit Temple Bar later that evening for one last hurrah.

Enniskillen to Belfast

The time spent in Northern Ireland was split between touring the old and the new of the country. It was an interesting way to experience and see this part of Ireland and the United Kingdom. The depth of the history is what impressed me about this area of the country.

I’ve continually said during my travels that actually seeing a land and the impact of history is an incredibly different way of learning about history. It brings it to life.

In particular the touring of Derry brought the recent history and troubles of the Irish people to life. It certainly gave me an entirely new perspective on it as we received tours from a local, and honored, tour guide.

Derry

We made the trip from Enniskillen to Derry where we spent the morning. We received a walking tour from a local guide, Martin McCrossen, who proved to be an amazing storyteller and purveyor of history. This city was incredibly rich in history; both modern and ancient. Martin brought the events to life but presented them in a way that allowed for hope for peace. I loved that the ancient city wall was still standing in this ancient town.

Giant’s Causeway

One of the most iconic and ancient locations in Ireland is the Giant’s Causeway. I found it to be unusual and breathtaking with the hexagonal pillars of stone creating what honestly looked like a stairway heading towards Scotland. I had never seen anything like it and I loved how the Irish had tied in lore and legend.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

I have never been forced to face my fear of heights so many times in the matter of a week; but I found the strength and courage to face yet another breathtaking and harrowing height. This time it was crossing a sturdily made rope bridge to cross from mainland to a tiny island best used for fishing by the locals.

To be honest the experience was not as terrifying as I had expected it would be; and in retrospect that was probably due to the fact that it was over water. And heights over water have a lesser effect on me for some reason.

Once over the bridge and on the island we were serenaded by our travelling companion’s bagpipes and treated to a great show.

Belfast

We spent the night in Belfast; despite the charm of the city I was surprised at how uncomfortable I felt while in it. This was one of the first times in my traveling experience where I was left discomforted by the city I was in. We did find an amazing restaurant for dinner, Teatro, and made a night of it. The next morning I had a chance to explore my feelings of discomfort and I think I discovered the reason why.

Galway to Enniskillen

We left Galway to experience the beauty of the Connemara; another of Ireland’s iconic landscapes.

Later in the afternoon we would cross over into the United Kingdom as our tour took us to Northern Ireland. Although we made the cross that afternoon it wasn’t until the following day that I could sense any difference between the two portions of Ireland.

The day allowed for an encompassing journey of Ireland’s beautiful landscape and countryside and allowed us to explore some of Ireland’s history. We learned about such icons as Grace O’Malley but as we travelled deeper into the Connemara a larger lesson concerning the Famine.

I grew up near Boston so the topic wasn’t new to me; many of the Irish who left during that era came to my city and state to settle. I thought I had a decent understanding of what had occurred but I learned a lot more than I anticipated on this trip. Our tour guide told us that 8 million people had lived in Ireland prior to the Famine but at the end only 6 million remained; it is estimated that 1 million died and 1 million fled.

The Connemara

The drive through Connemara reminded me of the Scottish landscape with all it’s majestic mountains and valleys but there was more growth. We stopped in the town of Leenane for Irish coffee and an impressive view. The next stop, as we progressed through the Connemara, was in Westport for a lunch break. I got myself lost in this city and explored for the hour we there. It was a really quaint city that I enjoyed exploring.

County Sligo to Enniskillen

Next we made our way through County Sligo and stopped over to see the resting place of famous poet W.B. Yeats in the shadow of Ben Boulben. Ironically enough Yeats chose this area as his resting place because it was out of the way and that would deter fans from visiting it. I found it to be underwhelming but that was what he would have wanted; in it’s own way it was perfect.

Along the road to Enniskillen we stopped at a waterfall to stretch our legs and for a photo opportunity. It was a small park off a backroad. It was so perfect for photo opportunities that as we left the park we came across a groom and his bridal party. And as we boarded the bus we caught a glimpse of the bride.

Enniskillen

We spent the night in Enniskillen (instead of Derry due to crowding at the hostel) which allowed us to explore the smaller town and mingle with the locals. We went out drinking at the pubs that evening in a large group and got to experience the mating rituals of cougars (hint: they go after drunk younger men).

Inis Mor

The entire sixth day of my trip was spent exploring the island of Inis Mor off the coast of Galway. Inis Mor is the largest of the Aran Islands and presented a beautiful look into the day to day lives of a quiet Irish island.

We arrived via ferry and were given several options as it pertained to touring the island; renting a bike to pedal our way around, hiring a local cab to give us a ride around, or simply walking. Initially I wanted to rent the bike but as we arrived on the island the weather had taken a true turn for the worse and it was quite a frigid day. Instead we opted to take a hired cab from the port and tour the island in that manner.

At the end of the day I was pleased with this decision because it gave us heaps more stories to tell and a really interesting perspective on the island since we were being guided by a local.

It also gave me a clear view on where the stereotypes of American tourists derive from; for we were joined in our cab by an American couple and an Australian.

The Aran Islands are known for their thousands of miles of limestone walls that criss cross the landscape. As we were traveling across the island we were able to see that they were endless. While myself and my companions gazed upon them with awe and considered them to be beautiful the American woman spoke up: “You have a lot of these walls but I’m not that impressed,” she said. “You know what we have a lot of in Georgia? Red clay.”

I kept my mouth shut.

Later we visited the Seven Churches and the very same American woman pouted and sat in the van declaring: “I’m tired of seeing ruins. Is that all there is on this island? Ruins and walls?” I began to wonder if she knew anything of the country she had chosen to visit.

Our tour of Inis Mor took us to visit Don Aonghasa, a 2,500 year old fort sitting on the edge of a 300 foot cliff which presented us with incredible views and yet another opportunity to conquer my fear of heights. We visited the Seven Churches (Na Seacht d’Teampaill); though I swear I counted eight. We saw the Seal Colony for which I put my binoculars to good use (and even offered them to the American woman who declared that they were inferior to the ones she had at home). We visited the main town, who had their power disconnected for the day while they were replacing lines; which made for a truly interesting shopping experience in the dark.

The night brought us back to Galway where I indulged in a shopping spree at my favorite store, New Look, and had dinner from the local convenience store. Surprisingly that was one of the best meals I had on the trip. All in all it was a fun day with quite a few revelations about my country women.

ENNIS to GALWAY

Given the change of buses I chose to change my seating arrangement and took a seat upfront. This allowed for some of the most stunning views of Ireland and some terrific photo opportunities.

Over the course of the morning I felt like I had the traditional Irish tour; involving some of Ireland’s most famous and well photographed locations.

These were places that if they had not already been featured in television or movies should be for their sheer stark beauty. The Cliffs of Moher, as seen in the Princess Bride, were as inspiring in person as they had been on the golden screen.

Ennis to The Burren

I began the day early to take a stroll about Ennis in the midst of the morning fog. The town was eerily quiet in the early morning hours; all the shops were closed and the traffic was non existent. I had quickly fallen in love with this beautifully quaint Irish town and wanted just a few more minutes to see it in the morning haze. Then I began the journey of the day by sitting at the front of the bus for a new perspective as we traveled through Ireland’s incredibly beautiful and starkly barren landscape.

The fog cleared quickly as we got underway and the sun shone through long enough to get us into the Burren and to visit the Poulnabrone (the Portal Tomb).  This stone structure dated back to the neolithic times in Ireland’s history and carried with it a trace of Gaelic mythology and sense of wonder that the ancient inhabitants of Ireland could build something on this magnitude without the aid of modern tools. As we stood admiring the Poulnabrone and the Burren landscape I watched as the fog rolled across the lunar landscape and enveloped us.

This was a pure Irish experience; to be standing on Ireland’s lunar landscape, gazing at the eerie portal tomb, and to be enveloped by the Irish mist and fog was a truly haunting experience.

To continue that experience we boarded the bus once again and followed a twisting, winding and dizzying road through the Burren to get to our next destination: a Faerie Ring. We walked around the outside of this piece of Irish mythology and carefully avoided entering the center of the ring; for fear of bad luck. Since our trip already had it’s series of bad luck encounters we all agreed that we did not want to risk angering the Irish faeries simply for a photo opportunity or on a dare. The fog lent itself to completing an incredibly eerie, haunting and authentic visit to the faerie ring.

The Cliffs of Moher to Lahinch

The fog cleared up just in time for us to arrive at the Cliffs of Moher. A light haze remained in the air as we stood along the edge and photographed this magifnicent sight but it did nothing to diminish the awe inspiring beauty of this Irish landmark. I replayed the scene from the Princess Bride nearly a dozen times in my head as I gazed out upon them. We explored the Tower and the available edges to get remarkable views down to the ocean. Along the route from the Cliffs to Lahinch we came across the “Last Erection of O’Brien”; and heard a little lore about that particular statue.

For lunch we visited the surf town of Lahinch where we found a local pub to dine at and then took our remaining time to visit the village and the ocean at our leisure. By the time we got back to the bus we weren’t terribly surprised to see that it had been replaced yet again; and now we were on bus number 4 (thanks to a faulty microphone on number three).

Lahinch to Kinvara; along the Coastal Road

From Lahinch we traveled along the Coastal Road for amazing views and stunning photo opportunities. We stopped along the way for a photo break along a set of cliffs that were impressively tall to me but did not come close to what we had seen at the Cliffs of Moher. I conquered my fear of heights long enough to get pictures taken for proof of that victory.

The Coastal Road is a trip that I recommend to anyone who is traveling to Ireland. In fact I would recommend a visit to all the morning stops of Day 5 because this was purely Ireland and some of the most breathtaking scenery you could see.

As we traveled along the Coastal Road the fog that had receeded long enough for us to appreciate the Cliffs of Moher and Lahinch returned to blanket the second half of our travels on the Coastal Road. It was truly eerie to be driving along this road and see nothing but gray ahead of you and to either side of you. It was a harrowing and beautiful experience. Another thing I noticed along this route was the subtle change of the trees; all of which were bent inland. It was a sign that the wind, water and ocean air had won the battles in this part of Ireland and contributed to the otherworldly feel of this landscape.

Kinvara to Galway

We took a short break in the town of Kinvara; long enough to become introduced to an adorable coffee shop along the water. The stay was not long before we were back on the bus and complete the remainder of the leg between Kinvara and Galway.

Galway

Our overnight stop for that night, and the following, was in Galway at the Kinlay House hostel (highly recommended). After settling ourselves into our rooms and breaking up into small groups, my roommates and I decided to go on an exploration of Galway and simply get lost.

The city proved to be as beautiful as we could have expected and we found a beautiful waterway to explore. As we participated in this exploration it was becoming increasingly clear that the unusual warmth we had been experiencing for the length of the trip was shortly coming to an end. A cold descended upon us in Galway and cut our explorations short; forcing us to find shelter in a pub that came highly recommended (the King’s Head).

It was there that we enjoyed a free beer with our meal and I experienced Wainright’s for the very first time; while tasty it would not be my preference but I do recommend it. After dinner we explored the area for a bit before taking off to meet the rest of our group for live music at the Spanish Arch. The band was called Alale and they were remarkable.

KILLARNEY to ENNIS

While travelling the tiny, winding roads of a coastal drive the biggest fear is getting into a collision.

We were travelling along one of these winding beautiful coastal roads when a Land Rover veered into our lane and clipped the front corner of our bus. I had an unfortunate seat to see the entire thing and it was certainly terrifying. Thankfully our bus driver was a skilled veteran and handled the situation calmly. The police and ambulance came along to get the woman out of her totaled car. That is not an experience I’d ever like to experience again but it is caution to any who would drive themselves on those coastal roads to be cautious and aware of their surroundings.

Killarney to the Dingle Penninsula

Having spent an overnight in Killarney we could not leave this part of Ireland without at least catching a glimpse of Killarney National Park. And what a sight it made first thing in the morning with a lingering haze over the valley. This was the first chance I really had received to test the capabilities of my panoramic camera; it was well worth the wait.

We followed a coastal road, winding and beautiful, on our way to Dingle. I had found a seat at the very back of the bus for this day and admittedly spent much of the drive facing the wrong direction. I found the best view was offered to me by gazing out the back picture window and was blown away when each turn presented me with yet another breathtaking view.

During one of the few times I sat forward I was gazing out my driver’s side window when I noticed something odd; a car was travelling down the curvy road in our lane. Before I knew it she swerved at the very last minute and connected only with the side of our bus. Even so that meant little damage to us but her car was beyond totaled with the front axle broken and a wheel pulled completely off. Worse yet was that she was stuck in her car with no way out. In the end we were cleared by the police to continue on our way and later learned that she had sustained only minor injuries; and no one on our bus was injured in the slightest.

Slea Head Drive

Despite the accident we were cleared to complete our morning’s excursion in our damaged bus; an excursion that would continue our trail along some of Ireland’s incredible and winding coastal roads. We were set to take on the Slea Head Drive.

I would not have missed this ride for any reason; and if you’re travelling to Ireland I highly suggest you enjoy it as well! The winding roads were on the ledges of hills, on the edges of cliffs, and brought with it a fair amount of legend and lore. I was also forced, for the 2nd time thus far on the trip, to confront my fear of heights but walking up to the edge of a fifty foot cliff.

We saw Bee Hive Huts on private property; I made my 3 euro donation and snapped photos of the huts even if there was no one there to check that I paid because they were a remarkable sight. We made a stop off at a beach that was begging me to jump in the water since the sun was shining and the waves were calm. Then we came to a sight that included a cliff with a cave that was completely inaccessible; but history tells us thats where the last Irish chieftain hide with the rebels.

Dingle for Lunch

Our lunch break in Dingle was cut short thanks to the morning’s accident but we made good use of the time by visiting a local pub called McCarthy’s. Incidentally I’d read a book called “McCarthy’s Pub” not long before making the journey to Ireland and it made me chuckle to recall the author’s pilgrimage to Ireland in search of his ancestor’s pubs. I also heard of Fungi the Dolphin and the tales that surround his legend in Dingle. Unfortunately we were forced to transfer buses since our’s had been damaged in the accident and I lost the beautiful back picture window to use as my personal portal to Ireland.

Dingle to Ennis

The ride from Dingle to Ennis was uneventful but presented me with a chance to stare in awe at the beauty of the Irish country side. I continued to be surprise at the ancient structures that would, from time to time, randomly appear alongside the roadway. And I was continually charmed by the villages we drove through and the landscape that so many poets have written about.

Overnight in Ennis

Though it was a quiet Tuesday night in Ennis I have to admit that this was one of my favorite towns that we visited. It was quaint and had a brilliant atmosphere to it that I particularly enjoyed the next morning.

We stayed at the Rowan Tree Hostel which our guide, Kevin, assured us was the nicest hostel in Ireland. By the finish of the trip I had to agree with him especially considering that I stayed in the newly renovated wing of the hostel.

The hostel even arranged for us to have Irish dancing lessons with a local gentleman. He was an adorable older man who proved to have amazing patiences with us as we attempted, and often failed, to learn the steps to several dances and variations he sought to teach us. We learned the “Seige of Ennis” and several others but had a grand old time making fools of ourselves.

For dinner we found a charming Italian restaurant that was cute and out of the way; but we weren’t the only ones from our tour to find our ways there and before long the group dominated the tiny establishment.

Our pub night was held at Cruises and was one of the highlight nights of our trip. We shared pints while watching the Ireland football team take on Serbia and end in a draw. I also had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of an American couple, who bravely invited us to sit with them at their table, who were on their honeymoon. And before the night was out I’d befriended 2 local gentlemen who were a wee bit too friendly but harmless and above all else entertaining.

DUBLIN to KILLARNEY

The last thing you want to due while traveling is haul a suitcasehalfway across town while on a deadline. We avoided that by hiring a taxi to take us to the drop off point for our bus tour of Ireland. One thing I did notice is that, completely by accident, we landed in a hotel that was practically next door to the rival bus company. The start to the trip was uneventful but we loaded our bags onto the bus and found a seat in the far back that allowed us a great view of the road.

I think that the beauty of traveling cross country by coach (bus) is that it allows you to absorb the scenery along the roadside. The things we came across, whether it be on back roads of highways, were amazing. The amount of ruins, castles and churches that were visible from the roadway was mind boggling to me as we passed through Ireland.

Dublin to Abbeyleix

Since we were traveling by coach we made quite a few stops each day in villages all over Ireland. I believe this is one of my favorite aspects of traveling by coach. You can tell a lot about a country by visiting it’s smaller villages rather than relying on the big cities to set the atmosphere and attitude for a country. This is particularly true for Ireland. We stopped in Abbeyleix for the purpose of purchasing a lunch to eat while on route to our next stop but I still found the town to be quaint and really beautiful.

Abbeyleix to the  Rock of Cashel

Our second stop for the day was to the Rock of Cashel; which was the historical home of the kings of Munster. This was a brief stop for us but it was worth it to see a castle this close up (and getting a chance to stretch our legs never hurts either).  It was this stop that gave me the moment of awe and recognition that I was in Ireland and there would only be more castles and awe inspiring sites during the 7 days of our traveling cross country.

Rock of Cashel to Mitchelstown Caves

We had the brilliant experience to next visit the Mitchelstown Caves. These are limestone caves deep within the ground of County Tipperary. Unfortunately photography was not allowed so I only was able to appreciate the view around and near the caves.

The caves themselves were unlike anything I’d experienced. Geologically they were mind blowing but the experience itself was pretty surreal. The temperature was cool compared to the warm fall temperature outside the caves. Then there were the sites of the drip pillars and the various formations that had been created over a remarkable length of time.

Blarney Castle

Next we made our way further south to visit Blarney Castle, home of the famous (or infamous) Blarney Stone. My traveling companion, Chris, had been here once before and prepared me for what to expect when I arrived at the Castle for I was determined to kiss the Blarney Stone. I figured it was a once in a life time experience (or ordeal). I psyched myself out going up to kiss the stone but it was something of an ordeal. You have to lay down on your back, inch out over an opening in the castle’s wall, lean backwards and kiss the stone upside down. The experience was worth having but I will not be doing that again.

Quite frankly it was a terrifying but rewarding experience.

As always I fell in love with the castle itself and the architecture that had been achieved back in the 15th century.

DUBLIN

We spent the morning exploring our neighborhood and then shopping on Henry Street. I was thrilled to find stores there that I’ve only dreamed of shopping at since I left London. We did a little reconnaissance on these stores so that we would know what we wanted to buy once we returned to Dublin- we didn’t want to have to lug around a tremendous amount of purchases as we were to live a bit of a vagabond lifestyle during the tour.

After a successful outing for shopping, and a few good purchases from River Island and HMV, we returned to the hotel room to drop off our goodies. Then we met my friend Shawn so that we could spend the afternoon with him visiting The Old Jameson Distillery. Shawn married my best friend from college a month before this trip and it just so happened was in Ireland for work.

Together we made our way to the Old Jameson Distillery.

The Old Jameson Distillery

This was a unique experience that provided a instructive tour of the Old Distillery, a history of Jameson and a lesson how the whiskey is made. While we waited for the tour to begin we each tried a different type of Jameson drink off their menu; Chris had his first Irish Coffee of the trip, Shawn tried an Irish style tea, and I enjoyed an Irish Hot Cocoa. I would highly recommend that everyone begin their trip this way to get a true appreciation for the versatility of Jameson Whiskey.

At the very beginning we were able to volunteer (and I recommend doing so) to be a Whiskey taste tester. After the instructional tour was over a small panel of 8, including myself, were given 3 taste samples of 3 different types of whiskey (Jameson, Scotch, and Bourbon). The entire panel successfully chose the Jameson as the preferred choice and in turn I am now an official Jameson taste tester.

Temple Bar

For the second night in a row we made our way to Temple Bar for dinner and a bit of drinking. This time we tried the sister restaurant of the Quays from the night before- the Old Mill. Both provided us with amazing food, atmosphere and drink but I would say that the Quays was my preferred of the two restaurants. And again we all indulged in proper Irish meals- Guinness & Beef stew and Fish & Chips.

Since Chris and I had a concert to catch we left Shawn early to make it in time to see the opening acts at our Kate Nash concert.

Kate Nash @ The Academy

I’ve been a fan of Kate Nash for quite some time now, at the very least since I lived in London. I think she’s amazingly quirky with a good voice and provides interesting songs and performances. Needless to say I was thrilled to see her live. As usual I wasn’t particularly fond of the opening acts but suffered through, or endured them, so that I could rock out with Kate Nash. I was not to be disappointed since she delivered a great concert and played all the songs I consider to be my favorites. I was thrilled to get to see a concert in Dublin!

DUBLIN

Like any international trip my journey started at the airport, specifically at Boston’s Logan International. It is a gamble to take an overnight flight to Europe but I wanted to optimize the amount of time that I had in Dublin on Saturday. Despite a definite lack of sleep there was nothing else to discourage my excitement. On either end of the flight I had a remarkably painless trip through the airport and encountered almost no lines,

Entering Dublin

It took us only a few minutes to pass through customs, collect our baggage and find our way to the shuttle bus. As we were leaving the airport we saw the sun on the horizon shaded by the morning Dublin fog. That’s when it hit me that we were in Ireland.

Bus Tour

I was once told by my Aunt Mia, a woman who loved to travel, that the best way to see a city is via a bus tour. I’ve relied on this advice for every major city that I’ve visited throughout Europe and have never been disappointed. Unfortunately because of our early flight and quick processing through the airport we had a tremendously early start to the day. Never the less we stayed awake long enough to see the city from the beautiful vantage point of bus top.

Given the excess of time we had we made a few stops along the way including St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Temple Bar and the Writer’s Museum.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral

We made our first stop to this stunning cathedral in Dublin. It possessed a depth of history and a wealth of stained glass. I’m always amazed at the detail of the architecture within these ancient buildings and the dedication and wealth that had to go into designing and building it all those years ago without our modern tools or technology.

Temple Bar

Temple Bar is a quirky area and quite popular with the tourists. It is a series of closed streets and alleys used to create a cultural area within Dublin. I’d read in several guides that the book market was something that must be seen and visited but I was quite disappointed with the three stalls that comprised of the book market. I’d be hoping to pick up something there to call a souvenir but it was so bland I gave up after ten minutes of perusing the merchandise.

Dublin Writer’s Museum

This was a last minute decision to see but I was thrilled that I had the opportunity to visit given my love of literature. I particularly wanted to visit to read up and pay homage to three amazing writers: James Joyce, George Bernard Shaw, and my favorite writer Oscar Wilde. This museum really opened my eyes to many other authors who are soon to grace my bookshelves and become new favorites.

Dublin Castle

The Castle was almost completely destroyed during a fire that took place in the 1600s. I found that it was a great disappointment for me when visiting because I was desperately seeking more of a Tower of London vibe and less of a Versailles vibe from the building. I loved the old part of the castle that survived and the walls of the structure.

Dinner in Temple Bar

Despite being exhausted we headed to Temple Bar for an early dinner. We found an Irish restaurant/pub in the Temple Bar neighborhood after specifically going on a hunt for a good traditional Cottage Pie. I felt right at home after ordering a Cottage Pie and Carlsberg. We savored every bite but by the end we were ready to head back to the Hotel and pack it in early for the evening.

X-Factor

As a long time fan of the show I was thrilled to get an opportunity to watch it live on Irish television. We watched the first live show from the hotel room and truly got to appreciate this season’s contestants live.

Direct Link to Ireland Day 01 Dublin Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/abroadinlondon/IrelandDay01#

previously posted on Abroad in London

As I predicted I immediately fell in love with London life. People had been warning me about how rude Londoners are before my move. Even the employees of my visa sponsor –Bunac- warned us of the rudeness that seemed to be rampant in London. Yet everywhere I was going and visiting I had found that people were friendly and polite, more so than back at home. Maybe it’s because I had spent so many years in Boston but I had found London to be cheery despite the grey clouds that never seemed to lift.

The Bunac program was big on provided social engagements for its members. One such event was a river cruise on the Thames for our Independence Day, July 4^th. Over three-hundred of us crammed onto this river ferry to celebrate the American Independence day and to get to know one another.

It was our independence from England that we were celebrating, I should point out. The irony of celebrating that independence was not lost on me that night. The night was beautiful and I was appreciative to see the sights of London from the river all illuminated in the evening. We socialized, made acquaintances and were even surprised by a small, defiant display of fireworks along the south bank of the Thames.

That night marked our second night in England. By the next morning it seemed that Chris, my flatmate, was quite fed up with his sleeping arrangements. Upon arriving at our flat we had to choose our bedrooms; Chris and I had each ended up with a small room equipped with a tiny twin sized European bed. For me this posed no problem because I had spent most of my life sleeping on a small twin bed.

However, a young man of six feet and four inches sleeping on a European twin mattress just doesn’t quite work. I assure you it is as comical as you’re imagining.

Instead of keeping me in stitches and providing me with endless amount of comic material, Chris decided it was time for a new bed. And I had decided it was time to purchase a comforter. We decided that a trip to Ikea –known for it‘s well priced household items and furniture- was in order. We got the directions to the closest, close being a loose term, and set out on what would later be known as ‘Jamie and Chris’s Great Adventure’.

One would imagine that when placing an Ikea near a major urban city there might be more thought put into how accessible it was by public transportation. Three tube lines and any number of stops later we found our way out of the station and promptly circled the neighbourhood in a figure-eight style formation.

This was not by choice. We were simply following signs.

Leave it to the English to constantly turn us in circles. When we had initially looked at the location of Ikea on the map in proportion to the tube station it had initially seemed odd that it would be a two mile walk. It did end up being a two mile walk but if there had been a more direct route it could have been shortened to half a mile.

Eventually we found the store- to be fair a store of that size in the middle of suburban London would be hard to miss. It was a mega store. The biggest store I’ve seen in my life. Of course the inside had to be made confusing by a maze of rooms and departments. Chris set off to find a bed and I set off to find my comforter.

A few hours later I stumbled out of that maze looking dazed and confused but being the proud new owner of a comforter and duvet cover.

It should be noted that I am no marine and I did, indeed, leave a man behind in Ikea. Coward, though I am, I re-entered the maze and helped Chris load his new futon onto a trolley (a carriage for all you Americans). Admittedly I was craven enough to avoid taking the tube back to Russell Square and instead we hired a mini-cab to cart us and our new purchases back to our flat.